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Budget 1911 Buying Guide

1911Some firearm designs pass the test of time so well that they never completely disappear. Somewhere there will always be 98 Mausers in production, some company will always produce an autoloader with similarities to the Garand and someone will always make 1911s. The 1911 in its many forms and varieties is simply too dependable, slick, useful and effective to ever be out of production; as long as there are pistol shooters, the 1911 will always be around.

Like any extensively-mimicked design, there are a number of low cost 1911s on the market today. They look a lot like their more expensive current-production counterparts and, in some cases, look a lot like older military-issue pistols, but are they as good? Is a knockoff at a lower price going to give the same good service that the prospective buyer always hopes for? Well, a lot of it depends on what you hope to get from the pistol and what kind of compromises you’re willing to make based upon your needs.

Accuracy
The run-of-the-mill 1911 priced under $800 probably isn’t going to be a tack driver for much of its career. Some lower-end guns will give surprisingly good groups. For example, 1-2 inches at 25 yards, when they are first taken out of the box, but this falls off noticeably after about 1000 rounds. Lower-cost guns generally make use of lower-grade steel in their barrels and bushings and they have very little hand-fitting put into them. By and large, 3 to 4 inch groups will be the norm as time goes on and a good gun should settle into this consistent level of accuracy until the rifling in the barrel is worn down (around 8000 rounds), at which point accuracy really starts to fall off.

More expensive models will give better accuracy for a longer time, but the purchaser needs to ask themselves if this is a concern. What we generally think of as a GI-pattern 1911 is the 1911A1, which was the pistol, used during WWII, Korean and Vietnam Wars. These guns essentially made the reputation of the 1911 but were hardly custom, hand-fit guns. Parts were mixed and matched as military branches saw fit. To this day, it’s hard to find frames with serial numbers that match slides. These guns gave 4-5 inch groups, which was considered more than adequate for their intended range and they were near-universally beloved by our soldiers. Unless small game hunting or competition shooting is in the offing, low-end 1911 accuracy is acceptable. If improved accuracy is necessary, you can always experiment with aftermarket barrels and bushings. Of course, this will increase your overall cost, but some people like to pay a little at a time instead of a bundle up front.

Dependability
The 1911 is, by no means, the most simplistic handgun ever designed but, thanks to its immense popularity, at this point it is somewhat hard to produce one that’s too difficult to use. Dimensions, materials, springs, bushings and magazines are standardized and have become extremely available in the one hundred or so years since its debut. You can count on most low-end 1911s to offer good dependability in general, with one possible (and common) exception: they might be a bit fussy when it comes to bullet design. Good old 230gr ball ammo will feed reliably though just about any 1911, but the new breed of flat-tipped “flying ashtray” ammo is likely to cause jamming issues in guns that copy the 1911A1 pattern too religiously. This is not a deal-killer for many people, as ball ammo is perfectly useful for self-defense purposes (just be very sure what’s behind the target). As your gun wears and tolerances loosen up a bit, most 1911s will become less selective about the types of ammo that they’ll feed reliably.

Fit/Finish
If you’ve spent any time looking over 1911s you’ve probably noticed that the lower-cost models just don’t seem as tight as their more expensive brethren. In reality, a tight 1911 didn’t really exist (outside of competition guns) until about twenty years ago. Until the new high-end and semi-custom companies cropped up, just about all 1911s rattled slightly when you shook them. Remember, 1911s were intended to be close-quarters combat weapons; looser tolerances were designed into gun, trading greater reliability for a commensurate decrease in accuracy. To this day, many folks simply won’t trust a 1911 that doesn’t rattle. If you pick one up and it seems a bit loose, don’t worry too much –it’s very possible that it’s by design.

Rattling aside, it doesn’t hurt to work all the controls and the hammer around on a 1911 prior to purchase. If the gun is brand new, everything should work smoothly without any discernible hitches or hiccups. The palm safety should depress easily and pop back fully when you remove your hand. Triggers on 1911’s can, in rare instances, be troublesome, but a single-action trigger isn’t bad. Some are heavier than others are and you may rarely encounter one with a bit of drag, but it’s hardly ever something that one can’t learn to live with.

You should probably pass over standard blued steel budget 1911s. Stainless steel is great stuff that makes for much easier maintenance, but it is also much more difficult to machine well and much harder to finish properly. Low-end 1911s constructed from stainless steel tend to be quite clunky, and while some break-in will eventually smooth things out, it is likely to be a real pain in the short-term. Unless the model you’re looking at makes extensive use of investment casting with a minimum of machining, a blued model is probably preferable.

Who Makes 1911s?
The 1911 wasn’t exclusively an American service arm. Over the decades many other nations made use of John Browning’s pistol and, in many cases, these countries produced their own guns. Some of these, such as a small number of Chinese models, were made without license, but many others were built with the full knowledge and assistance of American companies. Once upon a time Colt actually helped the Argentine government set up a factory to produce their own version of the 1911A1, and during the 1990s a great deal of tooling once owned by government arsenals passed into civilian hands all around the world. 1911s made with this tooling, supplemented by new companies retooling due to renewed interest, caused the 1911 to begin crowding shelves from every corner of the globe.

So, how good are low-cost, foreign-manufactured 1911s? To say the least, the quality varies. Many of these guns come out functioning and feeling like they were made by someone with only the haziest idea of what a 1911 should be, while others are nearly indistinguishable from original Remington-Rands, Colts or Ithacas. When it comes to evaluating foreign-built guns, the buyer is usually better off sticking to guns that are built offshore, but sold domestically under the banner of an American company.

It is not uncommon for American gun companies to outsource the production of certain models and then put a down-home name on the gun. The consumer benefits from the lower prices and most American companies will not import a product that falls below its own quality standards.

An imported 1911 that bears an American brand name is probably at least good enough not to smudge the reputation of the company as a whole. However, if you desire more than just an American affiliation, there are still a number of all-American companies that produce 1911s on the lower end of the price scale. These guns won’t be the cheapest but they’ll offer higher quality, which makes the extra expenditure worthwhile. Many of these manufacturers may only produce 1911s, or at least maintain a small catalog, and they tend to have a very good handle on their work. As small, specialized operations, they’re able to focus on quality and consistency and avoid the issues that jack-of-all-trades operations run into.

While foreign guns are much-beloved in the United States, the case of the 1911 is outside the norm, and the “Made in the U.S.A.” label is still the safest bet when it comes to low-cost 1911’s. You’ll pay slightly more, but will avoid irritation in the end.

Living with the Budget 1911
If you like the look, feel and ergonomics of the 1911 a budget gun is usually well worth taking a chance on. If you encounter feeding issues, most of time, you can counteract this by replacing the magazine. Cheap pistols tend to come with cheap magazines. Switching them out for a more expensive, but a considerably more reliable brand name like Wilson Combat or Chip McCormick (which can give you an extra round as well) is the easiest fix. Eventually you’ll want spare magazines anyway, so spend the extra cash to buy good ones that you can count on.

If the low cost 1911 doesn’t measure up in other departments (like accuracy or reliability), you usually have the option of throwing parts at it. While compared to the modern breed of striker-fired pistols, the 1911 looks like something that definitely requires a gunsmith’s touch. In reality, the 1911 is pretty easy to work with. 18-year-old Army privates learned to tear them down and put them back together for decades with few debacles, and it’s even easier without a drill sergeant breathing down your neck. With practice, patience and a work area where people can’t hear the cussing, the average Joe should be able to strip, clean and reassemble a 1911 with a minimum of fuss and a basic set of tools. If replacement triggers, barrels, bushings, pins or sights are required, you can usually take care of them yourself and learn a lot along the way.

Perhaps the best motivation for purchasing a budget 1911 is the small investment. If you spend $2000 dollars on a 1911, it will almost assuredly be a better gun than its $400 counterpart. The $2000 pistol will shoot nice tight groups and all of your range buddies will ogle it, which is all well and good, but what about other uses? In the real world, there are simply things you’d rather not do to a $2000 gun.

Do you want to leave your Colt 1911 in a gear bag for two weeks while you’re out camping? Do you want to take it out in the fishing boat, knowing that Earl tips the boat over and soaks your gear on almost every trip? In the real world, $400 guns have their place and their owners realize this. Cheaper 1911’s usually take all the same magazines, ammo and holsters that their expensive brethren do, but there’s less weeping when they’re roughed up or lost.

Many people own a $2000 1911 which they use for competition or just to impress. However, inevitability they end up carrying a $400 1911 most of the time. The budget 1911 might not be everything you hoped it would be, but it will usually be enough to do the job.

Prepper Firearm Buying Guide

Many people, who are purchasing a firearm, are getting a gun in case the things that we take for granted, like having the police respond quickly to a 911 call is unavailable due to a crisis. This is especially true for first-time buyers. These people are preparing to defend themselves during an emergency, and are often referred to as “preppers.”

Preppers have a few unique criteria, which they must consider when choosing the best device for protection. At the same time, there are several criteria all gun buyers, preppers or not, should consider when selecting the proper firearm for themselves. A few things to take into consideration are cost, accuracy, reliability and ergonomics. You can find all of these items included in our rankings of each firearm.

However, because preppers might be using their gun in an emergency, there are additional things that one should consider. For example, during a crisis, supplies of ammo might be limited. In addition, if you have an issue with your firearm, you may not be able to get your firearm to a gunsmith to perform a repair. One must also consider that it could be days or months for the emergency is over. That being said, a prepper needs a gun that will tough out a rough situation, for an unknown amount of time, without any outside help.

Keeping all of this in mind, here are a few things to consider when choosing your firearm.

Common Calibers
Firearms will only work with one specific caliber of ammunition, with a few rare exceptions. A gun without the right kind of ammo is useless. If semi trucks can’t quickly resupply local gun stores because the roads are blocked or fuel is scarce, having a gun that shoots a common caliber is a huge advantage. The more shells manufactured for a given caliber, the higher the likelihood of obtaining more ammo. For example, millions of rifles like the AR-15 use .223 Remington. Bullet manufactures crank out billions of rounds of .223 Remington every week. A prepper should look at a gun with a common caliber such as this. Below is a list of a few common calibers.

RiflesPistolsShotguns
.223 Remington
.308 Winchester
7.62×39
30-06
30-30
.22 LR
9mm
.40 Smith & Wesson
.38 Special
.357 Magnum
.45 ACP
.380 Auto
.22 LR
12 gauge
20 gauge
410

Common Magazines
All semi-automatic guns require magazines to hold ammo. These devices will not fully operate without the magazine in place. Therefore, another reason to invest in a firearm that is popular is because magazines get lost and occasionally break.

An example of a popular semi-auto is the AR-15. Because of its popularity, manufacturers make millions of magazines every year. The odds of finding AR-15 magazines is much better than, say, Mini-14 magazines. Below is a list of some common magazines.

Rifle MagazinesPistol Magazines
AR-15
AK-47
Glock
Smith & Wesson M&P
Sig Sauer
XD/XDM
Beretta

Ammunition and Magazine Supply
Preppers should have an adequate supply of both ammo and magazines in order to avoid running out of either, which could be disastrous. While there is no hard-and-fast rule about how much lead to purchase or the number of magazines to have on hand, there are a few popular scenarios you may follow.

For each firearm:

  • Assault Rifle: 1,000 rounds and 10 magazines
  • Hunting Rifle:  200 rounds and 3-4 magazines (if applicable)
  • Pistols:  500 rounds of full metal jacket, 100 rounds of premium hollow point and 10 magazines
  • Shotguns:  250 rounds split between birdshot, buckshot, and rifled slugs
  • .22 LR: 500 rounds and 5 magazines (if applicable)

“Oddball” Calibers
There is a contrary school of thought on common calibers. If a gun takes an “oddball” caliber, that is, one of the calibers not listed above; there may be less demand for that ammunition. Therefore, if a store stocks even a small amount of these bullets, you may be able to find some still sitting on the shelf. While this may be true, why take the gamble? I would advise preppers who are buying a gun to protect him or herself in an emergency, to never leave something as vital as the ammo supply to chance.

Also keep I mind that guns in oddball calibers will also take corresponding oddball magazines. Often oddball magazines are even scarcer than oddball-caliber ammunition to find.

On the other hand, if a prepper has a very good supply of ammunition and magazines, then oddball calibers are not a problem at all. For example, an AK-74 takes the oddball caliber of 5.45×39. If a prepper has several thousand rounds of the corresponding caliber as well as corresponding magazines, then he or she should not worry.

Corrosive Ammunition
Speaking of 5.45×39 ammunition, preppers who are casual shooters should avoid guns like the AK-74 that shoot corrosive ammunition. Soviet-bloc countries using the 5.45×39 and 7.62x54R calibers manufactured giant batches of ammunition with primers that leave a light rust coating on gun parts, unless cleaned with a mild alkaline solution such as Windex. If a prepper uses a gun with corrosive lead and forgets to clean it or is unable to clean it because of lack of supplies, the gun might lightly rust. (Note: Only 5.45×39 and 7.62x54R is corrosive).

Reliability
Let’s face it. A broken gun is useless. Some guns are more reliable than others are. And some are easier to fix without complicated tools than others. In order to find the most reliable gun, Preppers should consult a review site, such as our rankings page in order to find out ratings specific firearms for reliability.

Tactical or Duck Hunter
An AR-15 and a duck-hunting shotgun look very different. Sometimes a tactical-looking gun like an AR-15 is an advantage because it can persuade a criminal to leave you alone. However, also keep in mind that it is easier to walk around with a common hunting gun without raising suspicion. Because of this, preppers should consider which gun type their circumstances and surroundings warrant.

Cost
Preppers have many things to spend money on in addition to firearms. Food, water supplies, medical supplies, and communications are just a few. Every dollar spent on firearms is a dollar that cannot be spent on these other non-gun necessities. Preppers should consider whether they need expensive tactical firearms or, could defend themselves with a less expensive shotgun, such as the Mossberg 500. Hunting rifles and handguns, such as metal frame pistols should also be considered.

When choosing the right firearm for protection, take time to consider all of the items mentioned above. Review our rankings on different guns. This will help you to be sure you have made a solid decision.

Handguns for Big Game Hunting

Hunting HandgunsRegular hunting of big game with handguns is a fairly recent development in the sporting fields. While a very small number of hunters made use of handguns previous to the 1960’s it’s only been recently that properly designed handguns have come on to the market. Which has opened the sport up to most anyone with an interest.

Presently the handgun is probably the least popular choice when it comes to big game hunting. Rifles, shotguns and muzzleloaders are all more popular choices due to higher level user-friendliness and greater perceived utility. Making clean, ethical kills on big game with a handgun requires a tremendous investment in practice ammunition, time and of course, a certain amount of luck. Many hunters go through their whole careers without trying the handgun method.

The handgun can open up a whole new level of sport to a hunter. With the handgun every harvest is a trophy, every hunt is an adventure and a full freezer is a definite bragging point. Handgun hunting is always a challenge. As such, it is recommended that handgun hunting should only be tried after you have experience hunting with shoulder arms, which provide you with an idea the methods and options required in the sport.

Obviously the handgun is never going to be the most utilitarian choice for hunting so when selecting this type of firearm, the hunter should try to maximize available utility. Often the handgun can open up new options to the hunter in the form of special seasons and hunting areas that disallow the use of rifles but are open to handgun hunting. These areas and seasons typically have special regulations that center on keeping the handgun as a relatively low velocity firearm, thereby minimizing the probability of errant bullets escaping the hunting area. The law of the land varies from state to state and from area to area, but in most cases the following restrictions must be observed.

  1. The barrel of the handgun must be under 10-inches in length. Increased barrel length can increase velocity, so the limit is usually set at this length.

  2. The handgun must fire cartridges designed for use in handguns. Rifle cartridges fired from 10-inch barrels still develop high velocities, so they are normally restricted in handgun hunting areas.

  3. The cartridge, which the handgun fires must be a straight-walled cartridge without a neck. Obviously, necking big handgun cases down to smaller calibers would result in higher velocity. These creations could simply be labeled wildcats specifically for handguns, so necked cartridges are prohibited.

There are always a few bolt-action or single-shot handguns on the market. However, these are basically cut down versions of the original rifle forms, so they rarely meet the above requirements.

The current handgun hunter’s options are limited to the single-shot actions, single-action revolvers, double-action revolvers and a small selection of semi-automatics that fit the bill. So, aside from adhering to the above legal requirements, what makes a handgun a hunting handgun? A few small features make all the difference in the world. For starters, the handgun needs to be powerful enough to make an ethical kill shot on big game. This means that there should be a reasonable expectation that one shot from the handgun in a vital area will put the animal down.

The next item on the wish list is a set of adjustable sights. Good shooting can be done at longer ranges with fixed sights, but life it much easier when they’re adjustable. Being able to set your target in a proper, consistent, sight picture takes a lot of the luck out of shooting at around 100-yards and allows skill to replace it. Speaking of sights, if you think a scope would make life easier there are several hunting handgun models available today which are ready made for a scope and some are sold with rings included.

The final necessity for a true hunting handgun is that it must be accurate. Handgun cartridges do not have as much muzzle energy as the rifle cartridges most of us are used to hunting with, no matter the size. This lack of energy means that the hunter must be very careful about his shot placement to assure ethical kills. If the handgun is not capable of consistently placing its rounds in a pie plate at 100-yards it’s not a hunting handgun. Naturally, when it comes to accuracy the shooter must do their part, but if the weapon is not capable the shooter never will be either.

Single-Shot Handguns
The most useful and readily available single-shot hunting handgun is the Thompson Center Contender. The Contender is a pistol with a break-open action, much like the action of the T/C Encore rifle. The idea of a single shot pistol gives some shooters pause, but for hunting purposes the Contender is more than sufficient. It can be chambered for any handgun cartridge that you choose and the barrel can be easily replaced if a different cartridge seems like a better fit. Barrel length, chambering, sights or scopes can all be easily traded, making the Contender the most flexible hunting handgun on the market.

The Contender offers a  very strong design, which provides good service over the years regardless of the chambering. This firearm also has one of the nicest triggers of any handgun on the market today, which is a great feature for the kind of long range shooting the gun is meant for. Chances of the Contender wearing out or breaking is a very rare. Finding one on the used market is also a rarity, as the owners of these guns seem to develop a real affection for them.

The slightly odd design of the Contender gives some people trouble. The grips tend to be rather large, although they can be replaced by aftermarket alternatives if a smaller grip is preferred. Getting used to the break-open action takes a while as well. It’s a strange way to reload a pistol. Additionally, on older models it was required to break them open to cock the pistol if the hammer was lowered without firing. Even with these foibles, once you master the T/C Contender, it is capable of fine accuracy and can offer all that is required of a hunting handgun. It has few other uses, but in its niche it really shines.

Single-Action Revolvers
America has had a long association with the single-action revolver. Colonel Colt’s revolver was used for hunting long before handgun hunting was a sport, but it was never considered all that effective. Modern, purpose-built single-actions are equipped with adjustable sights and are beefed up to handle the pressures produced by today’s popular magnums. Leaf springs have been replaced with coil springs to increase dependability and modern materials decrease maintenance requirements.  With a minimum of moving parts the single-action revolver is both reliable and strong. The simplicity of its design means that it can be produced at a lower cost than other types of revolvers while still offering a high level of customer satisfaction.

When selecting a single-action revolver the first and most important item on the checklist should be to make sure that the fully cocked hammer in no way makes contact with your hand, usually in the area of the web between thumb and forefinger. Depending upon your location, you might even allow a little extra wiggle room for a gloved hand if you’ll be hunting in cold weather.

Aside from reasonable prices and great reliability the single action revolver can also offer a bit of recoil reduction thanks to the grip design. Most of these guns that are on the market have grips very similar to Sam Colt’s original design, which causes the gun to “roll” back in the hand instead of “kicking” directly back. If you are used to autos or double-action revolvers this can be a strange sensation. Keep in mind that it does reduce the felt kick of heavy recoil, using big bore handgun cartridges. The rolling action makes the second shot a bit slower, but the first shot much less disagreeable.

Double-Action Revolvers
The advent of truly useful handgun cartridges for hunting more or less coincided with the peak of the double-action revolver popularity. As a result, the first handgun really geared toward hunting were double-actions. This boosted popularity of the sport in the early days because the only difference between your hunting revolver and your service revolver or personal defense revolver was the level of recoil. As the semi-auto rose in popularity as a defensive arm the double action revolver became more of a rarity.

Large frame double-action revolvers have a limited demographic. Their factory grips tend to be rather large, but these can always be replaced for a better fit. What is non-negotiable is the distance between the back of the grip frame and the trigger. If the shooter’s hand or fingers are not large enough to easily bridge this distance then the revolver will never be the handy, functional weapon that it should be. If the double-action trigger pull cannot be properly utilized a shooter could obviously just use the single-action function, but in most cases if the only method for properly firing a double-action revolver is cocking it first then the single-action is a better choice.

The main attraction of the double-action revolver with regards to hunting applications is its long double-action trigger pull. Firing handguns out to or beyond the 100-yard mark isn’t easy, so hunters want any advantages they can get. Some feel that the long trigger pull of the double action allows for every shot to come as something of a surprise. This mitigates the tendency some shooters develop to flinch or jerk when firing large bore handguns. The longer trigger pull is usually harder to master but easier to live with.

Semi-Automatics
The idea of a purely hunting-oriented semi-automatic pistol has been floating around for decades and several companies have tried and failed to make of go of it. The main problem with a semi-automatic is that it is powerful enough to take big game, but the large cartridges required to do the job must be kept in the grip of the gun. This means that the grip is enlarged and the pistol placed outside the ergonomic requirements of most of the market, except those with very large hands.

The other frequent complaint regarding the semi-auto is that as a recoil or hesitated-release operated weapon, the loads fired from it must be kept at a certain power level for the pistol to cycle properly. Revolver shooters enjoy the option of using soft-loaded ammunition, but this is rarely an option for the semi-auto. The requirement for full power loads is credited with causing the disappearance of both the LAR Grizzly and the AutoMag from the market. For a time the Wildey, which was gas operated, solved this problem, but its expense and large size kept it from true popularity.

Currently the only semi-auto on the market that can be used for all types of big game hunting is the Desert Eagle produced by Magnum Research. The Desert Eagle is an interesting piece of equipment, but suffers from the same pigeonholing that its predecessors did. It is a very large, heavy pistol and, while it is gas operated, it doesn’t seem to work well for softer loads. In spite of its limited market, the Desert Eagle has been in production for some time and shows no signs of going away. It has met with more success than the designs that came before it, but it will never be as popular or functional as other hunting handguns.

The only other option for the hunting-minded semi-auto enthusiast are pistols chambered for the 10mm Auto such as the Glock 20 or Colt Delta Elite. The popularity of autos chambered for the 10mm Auto has always been a bit limited due to the grip size of guns like the Glock 20, which has a double-stacked magazine. As well as the increased felt recoil with 1911-style platforms like the Delta Elite. The idea of using the .45 Auto cartridge on big game is considered and usually tried by almost every handgun hunter, but in the end they all come to the same conclusion, which is that the .45 Auto with ball ammo offers the level of required penetration. However, it does not provide the proper wound channel. Hollow points give good wound channels and reduced penetration, but often result in feeding problems. The. 45 Auto has shown itself useful in a hundred other applications but big game hunting is not one of them.

Suitable Cartridges
The two smallest-bore handgun cartridges for big game are the 357 Magnum and the 10mm Auto. The availability of controlled-expansion hollow point bullets like the Hornady XTP has made these two cartridges more useful than ever in the last few years. While they are better than they used to be, it is advised that they only be used on game up to the size of a deer. The 357 and 10mm lack the high muzzle energy that is required to give good through-and-through penetration on larger game. But they are wonderfully user-friendly fodders for animals like deer and pronghorn.

The .41 Magnum and .44 Magnum are both extremely shooter friendly (by magnum standards) and are adequate for large game up to the size of elk. The .41 and .44 were once the most powerful cartridges that could be found. Although in recent years the power level has been considerably surpassed by newer, bigger designs, both of these cartridges remain more than useful and are often preferable recoil-wise.

The old .45 Colt makes for an excellent big game cartridge as long as the ammunition used produces muzzle velocities in excess of 1000 fps. This, of course, means that a modern, high-strength firearm must be used. With a modern single- or double-action the Colt can deliver performance similar to the .44 Magnum, making it an effective and pleasantly retro option.

Once the case size of the .45 Colt is surpassed we begin to get into the truly large, powerful and often times unpleasant-to-shoot cartridges. The 454 Casull, 460 S&W, 480 Ruger, 475 Linebaugh, 500 S&W, 50 AE and 500 Linebaugh are all capable of producing what might traditionally be thought of as rifle ballistics.

If mastered, all of these cartridges are capable of bringing down any game on the planet, but mastering them is difficult and expensive. All of these behemoths can be tamed to a point with handloading, but the factory-produced ammo will always be very expensive and very powerful. If you can honestly say that you enjoy firing cartridges in this class then the results can be very impressive. They are all capable of accuracy and ethical hunting out past 100-yards. Some hunters, who possess the right combination of disposable income, practice time and masochism even use them out to 200-yards, but this is rare. The recoil and muzzle blast from these cartridges is a definite eye opener, so keep that in mind when you’re considering your options.

Before choosing the hunting handgun for yourself, take the time to think about what type of game you plan to go after. Also consider things such as how large or small your hand is and how certain guns fit your hands. Also take time to consider your ammunition and what type of recoil your body can handle. By giving the proper thought to your options, you will make a wiser choice in your hunting handgun and will enjoy the sport much more so.

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